Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Hello Again

Gotta have some coffee cake when your at Lynmouth 

Its been a bit of a crazy time the last week or two as we have finally got the sort of waves that we should over the winter. It's been my first winter here in three years and i have been pleasantly surprised. In December i was thinking how the fuck do people surf in the winter but i have been in a 4,3 this whole time and i can still surf for at least 2 hours. That doesn't mean that i want to stay here every year and i am not going to cancel my flight to OZ yet.

As most of you have been well aware of it has been the week for Lynmouth and it has been pumping with everything from small on shore short punchy little waves to 4ft light off shore perfection and having some real leg burners.



I have been suffering from a knee injury for the last 4 months and i am pleased to report that i am on the home strait. It has taken way to long and at one point i didn't think it was ever going to get better, but with some encouraging words from my physio and having my friend Beau in the same boat I can do more than just cutbacks when i am in the sea. My advise to anyone with an injury like this is not to go for stupid Thursday nights out in Barnstaple as I have been finding out. When you wake up from a night out it feels like someone has been repeatedly kicking you square in the knee and just to get it back to the stage it was at on thursday morning takes about a week.

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